Friday, November 6, 2009

DESTRUCTION OF WORLD’S EASTERN HERITAGE IN IRAQ: Eastern foundations of Western civilization

DESTRUCTION OF WORLD'S EASTERN HERITAGE IN IRAQ: Eastern foundations of Western civilization                         

 by K Gajendra Singh  9 July , 2003 work.colum.edu/~amiller/antiquities.htm - 10k - Cached - Similar pages Saag.com paper 733

 
"It would be a good idea.' Mahatma Gandhi, when asked about his views on western culture.
 

There was an international cry and outrage in April and May, when following the collapse of the Saddam Hussein regime, US armed forces as the occupying power, had allowed the heritage Museum in Baghdad and other museums in Iraq to be damaged and looted along with libraries, institutions and ministries, except for the ministry of oil (and the oil fields) In spite of warnings, the most comprehensive archives of Iraq's history were set ablaze. Baghdad's National Library smouldered for two days with its half a million books, newspapers and documents reduced to ashes.  The Awqaf Library in Baghdad with more than 5,000 manuscripts was destroyed. The Saddam Manuscripts Library, with more than 40,000 manuscripts was looted.

Dr Charles Tripp of the School of Oriental and African Studies in London, who had used the Iraqi National Library in the 1980s said, 'It had newspapers from the 1920s and thousands of documents telling tales of the Ottoman period and the British mandate. Its hard to accept it is all gone. ' Mosul University Library with its valuable collections was also partly looted and burnt.' These collections offered a representative sample of the intellectual output of Islamic civilisation,' said Tim Winter, a divinity lecturer at Cambridge University.  'The loss of a thousand years of scholarly interpretation will impoverish Islamic thought, and strengthen the extremists indifferent to it anyway. 'Iraq's history has been savagely massacred,' said Dr Irvine Finkle of the British Museum. "To burn books is possibly the lowest form of human activity. Who would do this And why?"

During the peak of anarchy, chaos and looting US Defense Secretary Donald Rumsfeld had commented "Free people are free to make mistakes and commit crimes and do bad things,"

Professor Michalowski of Michigan said that this was "a tragedy that has no parallel in world history; it is as if the Uffizi, the Louvre, or all the museums of Washington DC had been wiped out in one fell swoop".  Professor Zinab Bahrani from Columbia University claimed that, "Blame must be placed with the Bush administration for a catastrophic destruction of culture unparalleled in modern history. " From Edinburgh Professor Trevor Watkins lamented that, "The loss of Iraq's cultural heritage will go down in history - like the burning of the Library at Alexandria - and Britain and the US will be to blame. " Others used phrases such as cultural genocide and compared the US in particular to the Mongol invaders of 13th-century Iraq.

Cultural heritage bodies in USA and UK had requested their governments to protect hospitals, schools and cultural institutions, but these requests were largely ignored.  Martin Sullivan, Chairman of President's Advisory Committee on Cultural Property and its member Gary Vikan resigned because the US military had had advance warning of the danger to Iraq's historical treasures.  "We certainly know the value of oil but we certainly don't know the value of historical artifacts," said Vikan, director of the Walters Art Gallery in Baltimore.

On March 20, when US and its allies began their attack on Iraq with Stealth and B-52 bombers, Tomahawk cruise missiles, smart and stupid bombs, museums and curators, universities and scholars across the world were worried what that might do to monuments in Mesopotamia, the fertile crescent land between the rivers Tigris and Euphrates, the cradle of civilisations, the land of Nineveh, Babylon, Nimrud and Uruk, the world's first city.  Where the Sumerians invented writing 5,000 years ago, where the epic of Gilgamesh, which formed the model for Noah and the flood, was committed to cuneiform writing 1500 years before Homer.  The land of the Old Testament, of the Tower of Babel and of Ur, where Abraham, the father of the three great monotheistic religions, was born. The museum at Mosul, with its oldest churches and from nearby Nineveh has the remains of personality cult of Sennacherib, a seventh-century BC cruel Assyrian ruler.  From nearby Nimrud, the giant winged Assyrian bulls with human heads were stolen and now awe the visitors to the British Museum. The attack on the museum in Saddam's home town of Tikrit was, perhaps, a 21st century symbolic strike at the personality cult of Saddam Hussein.

So US pro-Consul in Iraq Paul Bremer allowed the gates of Baghdad's heritage museum to be opened on July 3 for some diplomats and media, with heavily armed US troops and black-uniformed Italian carabinieri providing security.  But it was only a symbolic one day photo opportunity to convey the message that things were under control.  The Museum once had one of the world's best collections of pre-Hellenic statuary, gold jewellery and cuneiform tablets "It's important that people know the museum is coming back.  We hope to open properly within a year or two," said Dr Donny George, an Assyrian Christian and the museum's director of studies.

But a most remarkable thing has been the return of around 3000 priceless pieces under the "no questions asked "amnesty in which the clerics played an important role.  Some looters brought back the stolen artifacts, after imams had threatened to ban thieves from worship at mosques. The retrieved treasures included a statue of King Shalmanezzer III from 852BC, the Warka vase - a 5ft-high alabaster vessel from 3000 BC, encircled by several layers of sculpted figures, still with traces of red and grain colouring. Another rare exhibit is the gold treasures of Nimrud consisting of exquisitely crafted crowns, bracelets, cups and pendants discovered only in 1989 and rarely exhibited.  These had been stored in a vault of the central bank and had survived the US invasion, when the bank building was looted, set on fire and partly flooded. When the banks vaults were opened, bodies of looters killed in shoot-outs with rival gangs, were found inside, but the seals on the crates of the antiquities were intact.  The collection had been carefully stored with thousands of pieces hidden in secure rooms around the museum, in vaults in the central bank and in bunkers around Baghdad. This was done according to plans drawn up for 1991 Gulf war. 

But of the 42 most valuable items, 32 are still missing, including a bronze relief from 4000 BC, "worth 100 Mona Lisas.  And many pieces still remained unaccounted, with thousands gone from the storerooms. The museum did not have an inventory of its collection, not even on a handwritten card index, let alone on a computer. Who stole the museum's best items would take time to find out.  Dr George denied that some of the looting was done by museum staff.  But it was not just vandalism, he added.  It was clear that there were some professional thieves. "They had plans, glasscutters, and knowledge. We found keys brought by the looters. They opened the museum director's safe where they found other keys. " There are reports that some retrieved pieces are copies.

Why the initial reports of the losses were exaggerated remains a mystery but Dr George clarified that it was because of a misunderstanding that the 170,000 pieces were reported missing.  He had only given the total number of objects. The reports had outraged the world making it a symbol of the lawlessness of postwar Iraq and America's failure to establish security after its quick victory.  Now investigations are under way, with help from Interpol and FBI teams.  It is quite possible that the reports of losses were intentionally exaggerated to attract world attention for provision of security by US authorities which was then lacking and to scare away the professional as well as amateur looters

While playing down the numbers stolen, Colonel Matthew Bogdanos, head of the investigating team appointed by USA said,  "Almost 3,000 items have been recovered, but over 12,000 are still missing. " He divided the looters into three kinds, those who went through the public galleries, picking out the most valuable or easily transportable items.  "They were selective in what they stole," he said.  When it came to the items looted from storage chambers, two dynamics were visible. "One was absolute indiscriminate looting.  Bags and boxes were taken from one end of the museum and dropped at the other." The "most troubling" thefts were of items "in the most remote corner of the most remote room. Other stuff on the way to it was not taken. You couldn't get there unless you knew it well. This was the priceless collection of cylinder seals and Hellenistic, Roman and Islamic coins". Under amnesty half the items were returned by people who took them for  "safe keeping "or given by friends, the other 1,500 were seized after tip offs.

About ancient monuments, experience with US armed forces is not very encouraging. American bulldozers had razed the ruins of Tell al-Lahm, south of Ur, during the 1991 Gulf war. The great arch of Ctesphion, still the widest unsupported brick arch in the world, was cracked by the vibrations of the American carpet bombing. John Curtis, the keeper of the department of the ancient near east at the British Museum, who visited Ur last year had little doubt the Americans strafed the ziggurat - a great, stepped pyramid - with heavy machine-gun fire the last time they passed that way.  "Whether this was an accident, I couldn't say," he says.  Another European invader Napolean had tested his artillery against Cairo's pyramids.  Talibans had bombed Buddhist statues at Bamiyan in Afghanistan a few years ago, leading to international uproar.

On the other hand US and its allies point out that Iraqis have used ancient defences for parking tanks and point out that Iraqi airbase is in the shadow of the great ziggurat of Ur, city of Abraham.  Incidentally "the Ur airbase was built by the British in the days of its colonial mandate, when the RAF first demonstrated the civilising capabilities of bombing civilians from the air." Also if you put a machine-gun emplacement anywhere in Mosul, for instance, it will only be next to antiquities.  But that doesn't make Mosul a valid target.

There was another reason for the Iraqis placing machine guns outside museums.  After the last Gulf war, when Kurds and Shiites of Iraq were encouraged by US president to rise up against Saddam, several important museums and archaeological sites were looted in the chaos. Of the 4,000 precious objects missing (many more were destroyed), most stolen items followed the well-worn route to Israel, Switzerland and, finally, to London, where many Assyrian pieces, broken up for easier transit, ended up on the art market or in the back rooms of antiquarian dealers.  As a pariah state, Iraq could not get them back through official channels, but the Iraqis were still trying to buy some of them back from western collectors when the 2003 invasion started."  Any responsible government must protect their cultural heritage," said a western expert.  Dan Cruickshank, the architectural historian whose film on the subject was screened by the BBC, said, 'It is simply not true that the people of Baghdad looted their own museum,' 'they have far too much respect for their own heritage to do that, he added.

For all his faults, Saddam Hussein was protective of archaeology, promoting it for a national rebirth and a repeat of the glories of the past, and comparing himself to Nebuchadnezzar (what about US presidents as Roman emperors ) who had built the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. His rebuilding the old city walls with bricks embossed with his own name next to that of Nebuchadnezzar was a crime against archaeology and aesthetics.  But to protect Iraq's heritage as a patriotic duty, five years ago, 10 men from near Mosul who had cut the head off an Assyrian winged bull at Khorsabad, were executed.

But such is the insatiable hunger of western collectors for eastern artifacts that Iraqis continue to loot and smuggle them out of Iraq. Some American and European experts say that most of the 33 missing items were taken in the first few hours of the collapse of Saddam's regime and were stolen 'to order'.  Professor McGuire Gibson, an Oriental specialist from Chicago University and a member of the Unesco team investigating the thefts, had received reports that the 'top five' items among the 33 had been smuggled to Tehran and Paris within days of their removal.  The loot of eastern heritage has continued since millennia.  But ignorant Europeans have derided eastern civilization and culture.  One ignorant Englishman gave more weight to works of William Shakespeare than the whole of Indian literature.  Recently an uncouth Italian Prime minister described Muslims as culturally inferior.

MESOPOTAMIAN AND EASTERN FOUNDATIONS OF WESTERN CIVILISATION

In the arbitrary division of the world in to the West and the East along the straits of Bosporus, Dardanelles and Gibraltar ( from Arabic Jebel el Tariq ) or into Europe ( and USA ) and Asia, the Europeans first came in to contact with Asians and were either civilised or evolved their own civilization after encountering  superior and existing civilizations in Asia.  These Eastern countries i.e. Egypt, Syria, Iraq , Iran and Turkey, now Muslim countries, have fallen on bad days .In their heydays of the Muslim empires, the Arabs ruled and civilised most of Spain and Ottoman Turks reached right up to the Gates of Vienna .  They developed and spread culture and civilised Europe. Classical Greek and Hellenic works were translated into Arabic and thus saved as these had been lost in the west.  As conservative fundamentalist forces emerged on top, Muslim empires and civilisation decayed and they were colonised by the west with superior arms for waging wars.  As had been done earlier by the Indo-Europeans, Turks and Mongols. 

It is rather unfortunate that Muslims, because of Islam 's origin in  Arabian Peninsula have classified everything that existed before it, even elsewhere, as Jahilya ( ignorance).  Most lands conquered by the swords of Islam or Sufis and saints had ancient and flourishing civilisations. Thus, unfortunately little work has been done by Muslim countries to discover their hoary past, which are such rich sources of ancient history, culture, human thought and philosophy.  Only tourism has made them take some interest in their past i.e. Egypt and secular Turkey.  Even in Turkey, Government publications on their history start with 6th century Gök Turk empire (in Mongolia) and then come to 11th century AD after the Byzantine defeat at Manzikert by Turkic tribes.  Thus a mis-conceived attempt is made to black out its pre-Greek, Greek, Hellenic, Roman and Byzantine past. The percentage of Turkic blood, mostly Turcomen would not be more than 15% in the Republic of Turkey. Other examples are the governmental attitude to Pharaonic past in Egypt and Indus Valley and Vedic past in Pakistan.   

Most ancient Indo-Aryan and eastern writings were brought to world attention by western scholars.  But some of them were not so enlightened and writing in 19th and first half of 20th century at the height of colonial period, tended to strengthen the notion of ruling white man's civilising mission and hence his superiority and supremacy over the native genius throughout history.  The propensity of the Brahmins, the highest caste among Aryans, to control and keep everything to themselves i.e. their close family members or caste men led to lack of transparency and hindrance to the culture of writing.  So there are few reliable records. Only the oral tradition remained.  Lack of transparency persists even to this day in Indian polity encouraging nepotism, inefficiency and corruption. India is No 71 in world transparency order. Writing has been acknowledged as one of the most important tools of civilisation. 

Apart from intrepid Buddhist travelers from China and others like Megesthnese, Alberuni, Ibn-batuta etc we have to rely mainly on Western sources or translations when it comes to the origins of history, religions, culture and civilisations.  As for the western bias we can see even today how CNN and BBC moderate, distort and even tell blatant lies about events taking place in Afghanistan, Pakistani, Jammu and Kashmir and now Iraq. Even TV channels like Discovery and National Geographic distort the truth.  Truth is becoming a major casualty because of western control of communications and thought, more so after fall of the Berlin Wall. Pravada and Izvestia had exercised some check. But the so-called impartiality, especially of US media has been exposed by independent Arab channels like Al Jazeera etc during the recent US war on Iraq.  

How Alexander "the Great " has been glorified as a Western conqueror of the East.  He was a small town homosexual boy who was taught the intricacies of state protocol, running of an empire and the divinity of the emperor by older civilisations of Asia Minor, Egypt and Persia. If he had followed the advice of his teacher Aristotle and not learnt from the so called barbarians, his vision would have remained limited and shallow.  The desert Arab tribes were civilised by the Byzantine courtiers and princesses in Damascus and Sassanians from Persia in Iraq after being conquered by Muslim Arabs.  So were the nomad Central Asian Turks and Mongols (also by Chinese) by the Persians.   

As there was little comparable civilisation in Western Europe and certainly USA in pre Christian era, they claim that there civilisation, culture and thought originates from the Greeks of Aegean and Asia Minor (Turkey).  According to them, Greek civilisation and culture evolved and flourished in Crete and evolved when Greeks (pirates) coming from the Aegean islands settled on the west coast of Asia Minor (called Ionia-Yunani) There fore Minoan civilisation of Crete forms the basis of Greek and hence Western civilisation.   It is too simplistic and illogical, if not downright absurd. Why not Cyprus, Malta, Sicily?  At that time, there were flourishing civilisations in Egypt, Asia minor, Mesopotamia, Persia, Sogdiana and India. Persian Empire extended up to western Turkish coast with Sardis as its out post. Most Greek city states in Asia Minor were under the Persians, who could cross over the Dardanelles or the Bosporus at will or occupy Greek lands.  The first Greek victory over Persians is celebrated as Marathon race in sports.  The first victory of the West over East!  

Cretian civilisation is derived from Egyptian and Phoenician.  Both are indebted to Mesopotamian, verily the mother of all civilisations, which evolved mostly between Tigris in Euphrates in Iraq and  southeast Turkey.  The evolution in human progress took off six millennia ago.  But fourth millennia BC was remarkable, not only in Mesopotamia but in the Nile valley and the Indus Valley. From family units polity developed into villages and cities, kingdoms and empires.  The cities were ruled by a god and in his name by the king.  To begin with, the first deity was Earth, Mother Goddess. Civilisations in Mesopotamia were created by Sumerians, Babylonians, Akkadians, Assyrians and others. Nile got cylindrical seals from Mesopotamia and the beginnings of writing.  The Nile civilisation is magnificent, well preserved but unidirectional and flourished in isolation, without the stimulus of exchange.  

If one studies the Egyptian or Pharoanic civilisation, much has been contributed to it by the Nubians of Upper Egypt.  Many  Pharao's had  thick lips and crinky hair.  Or La la, Egyptians are bad enough and now to claim that the Sudanese might have influenced the Greek and hence the Western Judo-Hellenic Christian civilisation. Yes, after the development of civilisations in Mesopotamia and the Nile valley, it filtered to eastern Mediterranean, which became a cradle of civilisations, with exchange of ideas through trade and people. That is how the island of Crete acquired civilisation. 

The achievement of a civilization may be expressed in terms of its best points—moral and ethical, aesthetic, scientific, and, not least, literary. Legal theory flourished and was sophisticated. Early on, it was expressed in several collections of legal decisions, the so-called codes, of which the best-known and the earliest is the Code of Hammurabi.  Throughout these codes recurs the concern of the ruler for the weak, the widow, and the orphan.

There are 25 firsts achieved by Sumerians.  These include wheels, the plough, the loom, the potter's wheels, the brick, and the sail, working with metals and finally writing. Technical accomplishments were perfected in the building of amazingly accurate Ziggurats (temple towers resembling pyramids), with their huge bulk, and in irrigation, both in practical execution and in theoretical calculations.  At the beginning of the 3rd millennium BC, an artificial stone often regarded as a forerunner of concrete was in use at Uruk (160 miles south-southeast of modern Baghdad), The ultimate weapon to spread civilisations remains systematic writing.  

Judaism, mother of all revealed Abrahmic religions in West Asia is claimed to be the first monotheistic religion.  But it could have been perhaps influenced by Avestan/Zoroastrian/ pre-Vedic religions in Mesopotamia. In 14th century BC it was an Aryan Mitanni (a kingdom at the borders of Turkey and Syria) princess Gilukhepa, perhaps the well known and famous Nefertiti, who fully supported her husband Pharaoh Akhneton's (AmonhotepIV) efforts to bring in (and perhaps inspire) monotheism, for single God Aton (Sun or Mithra like!). This concept was too sudden and undermined the vested powers of the priests.  It was dislodged and soon after Akhneton was removed from power.  New work in Egypt is moving in that direction.  It was from Egypt that Moses led the Hebrews out to lay the foundations of Judaism.  

Now let us take the story of Illiad and Odyssey. For Western culture and civilization, they are almost like Mahabharata and Ramayana are for India, making its author Homer one of the most influential authors in the widest sense. The two epics provided the basis for Greek education and culture throughout the classical age and formed the backbone of humane education down to the time of the Roman Empire and the spread of Christianity.  The Homeric epics had a profound impact on the Renaissance culture of Italy.  Since then the proliferation of translations has helped to make them the most important poems of the classical European tradition. 

Illiad was finalised probably around 750 BC and Odyssey 650 BC (Greek writing started around 650 BC).  It is felt that Odyssey, so different from Iliad was not composed by Homer, the blind bard born in Asia Minor, but probably by a young lady (a Jane Austin) somewhere on the Sicilian coast with time to spare.  Let that pass. But there certainly is historical basis for the story of abduction of Spartan King Menelus's wife Helen by Trojan Prince Paris.  Menelus's brother King Agamemnon of Achaeans, then decided on a voyage of punishment and retrieval. This is when strangely an artificial line, straits of Dardanelles, has been introduced by the Europeans to divide the world into East and West and the victory over Trojans is taken as of the west over East.  Why?  Later Alexander made offerings at Troy (also at Egyptian oasis Siva) before embarking on his conquest of Asia. Ottoman Sultan Fethi after conquering Constantinople, also visited Troy.   

We need not go into the details of the two epics and Troy.  But in the search to find the exact place and the time of the events, credit might be given to Heinrich Schliemann.  Inspired by Iliad's description, he started digging at Troy site but damaged the real Troy.  He was a mythomaniac and big liar.  Paris's father King Priam King of Troy is an hour's walk on the Asian side from the Dardanelles.  This strategic site, controlling the sea borne trade from the Mediterranean and Aegean to the Black Sea and beyond has been inhabited since fourth millennium BC. Troy 6, site of Homer's Illiad has been dated to about 1260 BC.  

At the same time, there was the majestic and magnificent Asian Hittite Empire (1800 BC to 1200 BC) in central Turkey, whose capital Bogazkoy 's citadel has a circumference of five kilometres.  The Troy fortress measures 200 yards by 150 yards.  Excavations show that Troy perhaps fell as a result of weakening by an earthquake.  It was assaulted and set on fire, women and children taken as slaves.  Evidence from Hittite archives indicates that Troy was a small state in alliance or subordinate to it. It was attacked when the Hittite empire was in decline and fighting its new enemy the Assyrians in the East.  So all this 10 year long Great Trojan war drama was a storm in a tea cup in the ocean of Hittite Empire, which extended from north of Turkey to Syria and up to Babylon (Iraq.)  Hittites were contenders for the control of Syria with the Egyptian Pharaohs and local Aryan kingdom of Mitannis in Turkey and Syria.   

The regions linking the river basins of Euphrates and Tigris, Oxus and Jaxartes, Indus and Ganges have contributed more to religion, culture and civilisation than the rest of the world put together. Comprising of Turkey, Syria, Iraq, Iran, Central Asian Republics, Afghanistan and the Indian sub-continent, there has always been natural interaction in the area through travel, trade, migration and conquest for over five millennia, with many civilisations having also evolved and flourished in desert oasis.  The more civilised areas were dominated first by Indo-Europeans charioteers and then the horse riders from Asian Steppes who shaped the Eurasian history.  Aryans of India migrated from the steppes of north of the Black and Caspian Seas and Khazakhstan from 3rd to 1st millennia BC.  Later Turks and Mongols migrated from the eastern Asian steppes to the Indian sub-continent, Iran and Turkey then known as Asia Minor, where as mentioned earlier had evolved and flowered ancient Greek and Hellenic thought, culture and polity as a result of interaction of incoming Greeks with the existing Asian civilisations of Asia Minor, Mesopotamia, Egypt, Persia, and India beyond.  Turkey has more Greek sites than Greece and more Roman monuments than Italy. 

With a continuous history this area has been the cradle of most civilizations, thought, philosophy and religions; pre-Vedic to Vedic religions, Buddhism, Hinduism, Jainism, Sikhism, Avestan, Zoroasterism, Manichaeism, Judaism, Christianity with its various strands and schisms, Islam and such bye-lanes as Alevis, Alawaites, Yezidis, Druzes and many others.  Indo-Iranian, Ural- Altaic and Semitic languages have mingled with each other and local languages to produce such a mosaic of languages and tongues.  Culturally, linguistically, ethnically and spiritually there is no region in the world which is so rich and diverse but also has so much in common. 

Let us now take western (hence Greek) philosophy, which begins with Thales (who predicted 585 BC solar eclipse). Thales who established the Miletian school (near Smyrna-Izmir, Turkey) speculated that everything consisted of liquid, his disciples Anaximander said there was unity behind multiplicity and Anaximanes that everything was vapour. They are considered spiritual forefathers of Socrates, Plato and Aristotle. 

By 6th century BC schools of Jain and Buddhist philosophy were well established apart from Upanishads, Yoga, Charakva and Sankhya, which have an even older tradition perhaps going back to 8th century BC.  While religion and philosophy in India are fused; Buddhism, Jainism and some other schools started as philosophy of life without creating or relying on Gods.  Socrates with his inner (intuitive) voice and trances with Plato made a team like Ramakrishna Paramhansa with Swami Vivekananda i.e. intuitive speculator and philosopher with his eloquent spokesman. We know about Socrates only from Plato' writings. 

The Orphic and Pythagorean and later Parmenides philosophy or cults are similar to Indian philosophy.  Perhaps the ideas had traveled via Alexandria, hub of eastern Mediterranean, then held in high regard as a place for learning and wisdom , where  Greeks and others used to congregate and learn. Ugarit port on the Syrian coast was another meeting place for traders, travelers and wise men from the west i.e. Cyprus, Crete etc and east i.e. Iraq, Persia and India beyond.  Greeks and Indians were employed in Susa, capital of the Persian Empire, which also ruled north India.  So exchange of ideas and philosophy was normal. Scylax, a Greek origin Persian subject from Asia minor was commanded by Emperor Darius to navigate river Indus from Kabul to its delta on the Arabian Sea, from whose records Herodotus and West learnt about India. 

Earlier Greek writings and thought had everything; logic, speculation, myths, mystery and beliefs.  It's a difficult to say when the divergence between East and West commenced.  And why? European rationalism and renaissance! Does it have something to do with the colder climate of Europe, which made them think more rationally and did not lend to development of intuitive powers.  We can see the divergence even in the evolution of Christianity, Western and Orthodox.  Western theology turns towards dualism making a distinction between the spirit and the matter. Eastern theology maintains that spirit and matter are the two interdependent manifestations of the same ultimate reality.  Christianity has been influenced by Mithraism (from pre-Vedic cult ), then very popular with Roman legions, senators and even Emperors who built Mithra temples all over central and east Europe and Asia Minor. Christmas is celebrated on 24 December eve, time of  Mithra's birth ( when the Sun starts waxing ).   

The divergence between conscious intuition of the East and rational thought of the West was perhaps complete after de la Carte announced  "I think therefore I am. ' Of course there's no place for intuition in this.  But many western scientists have declared that only intuition had led them to the discoveries of science.  Zen masters use Kaons, apparently illogical riddles, to unlock intuitive powers. West then took as faith Darwin's theory of evolution that mutations cause species to change at random and the fittest survives and not Lamarck's theory that species change because they make determined effort to change.  It has played havoc with human history. Survival of the fittest theory brought in colonialism, imperialism and cultural orientalism. West also evolved divisive nationalism, Marxism, capitalism, ideological totalitarianism.  For these causes and ideologies many scores of millions were butchered in, so far the most violent of all , the 20th century.  

And now globalisation (forceful promotion of western corporate interests), under the garb of economic deregulation and integration, creating a system akin to Capitulations ie granting sovereign power to foreign interests and expatriates, roles now played by local presidents, prime ministers and others.  Capitulations undermined the mighty Ottoman empire.  Globalisation is another ruse to control wealth around the world with out any accountability. No concern of the ruler for the weak, the widow, and the orphan. It started with the mercantilism of Genoa and Venice if not Miletians, when  merchants started emerging as power brokers in Europe. 

West now believes that there is nothing superior to human rational knowledge. In Greek philosophy, the idea of unwritten laws exists - which ''live always and forever, and no man knows from where they have arisen". Western belief in an external moral universe, to which men owe obedience, has been changed to a rational secular alternative to this moral structure. Isaiah Berlin advice that ''solutions to the central problems existed, that one could discover them, and, with sufficient selfless effort, realize them on earth'' has been lost.  Popular religious belief in the West still remains strong, but since mid 20 century its elites have become secularized with radical autonomy and absolute freedom to do whatever one chooses - alone in the universe.  

What are a few centuries in human evolution ? Should we not change course. Does West need more stunning events like 11 September, which could be really devastating and catastrophic. The course being followed by US neo-conservatives in Iraq and elsewhere bodes ill for all.

(K Gajendra Singh, served as Indian Ambassador to Turkey and Azerbaijan in 1992-96. Prior to that, he served as ambassador to Jordan (during the 1990-91 Gulf war), Romania and Senegal.  He is currently chairman of the Foundation for Indo-Turkic Studies Email-Gajendrak@hotmail.com) 

Back to the top

Home  | New  | Papers  | Notes  | Archives  | Search  | Feedback  | Links

Copyright © South Asia Analysis Group 
All rights reserved. Permission is given to refer this on-line document for use in research papers and articles, provided the source and the author's name  are acknowledged. Copies may not be duplicated for commercial purposes.

 

Thursday, October 15, 2009

AN INDIAN JOURNEY IN PALACE ON WHEELS



---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: gajendra singh <kgajendrasingh@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, Oct 15, 2009 at 4:32 AM
Subject: AN INDIAN JOURNEY ON PALACE ON WHEELS
To: Gajendra Singh kgajendrasingh@gmail.com


 A JOURNEY THROUGH THE LEGENDRY  FORTS , PALACES, CITIES, BIRD & TIGER SANCTUARIES OF RAJASTHAN AND AGRA'S TAJ MAHAL

                                                                                                      IN THE COMFORTS OF YOUR                                 

                                                                       PALACE  ON  WHEELS  

                                               

                              ( Published in Turkish Daily News, Ankara, in 1997 )

 

We reached early in the evening the less crowded Cantonment Railway station of India's capital city Delhi for a week long sweep through Rajasthan's historic cities, legendary forts and magnificent Palaces, bird and tiger sanctuaries, savoring its traditional hospitality and culture capped with a visit to Taj Mahal in our "Palace on Wheels". At the entrance itself there was  festive atmosphere with guests being  received with  garlands by smiling former khadims of Maharajas . In all about seventy, we were escorted with traditional hospitality to our ethnically decorated but air conditioned bedrooms, mostly with two beds, hot and cold running water, shower, wash basin and WC. We quickly opened out our suit-cases , arranged our things and then strolled along the inter-connected  saloons  into a period bar  where a handlebar mustachioed Rajput offered us a welcome cocktail .After meeting some fellow guests ,we spent some time in the library with its many books on travel and then walked over to the period dining car. Most guests were settling down. Yes, there were some Indians too, NRIs, one with his US spouse , retired Ambassadors , businessmen ,executives and others. Making polite conversation and sizing each other up, exchanging information and visiting cards. With whom to group with and spend more time. Soon the Palace on Wheels (POW) started rolling out towards its first destination ; Jaipur,  Rajasthan's pink coloured capital. We settled down to gourmet food, with Indian, Western and Chinese delicacies to choose from and  found it better fare than at India's topmost hotels during our stops .Being a little tired but excited in anticipation, we returned to the luxury cabin to sleep early to accustom ourselves to early morning schedules. On the way liveried bearers attached to each carriage of  4 bedrooms and a cozy lounge  inquired when could the bed tea be served in the morning -an old Indian tradition. We had to be ready by 0730 hours

                       

                                               2nd Day - Jaipur, the Pink city

            .After tea in bed at 630 hrs with POW lined at the Jaipur station and a quick shower we went to the lounge for breakfast of juice ,omlettes, toasts, butter , jam , with tea or coffee. But at 630 hrs an assistant of  the state Chief Secretary ML Mehta,  had come to fetch us. Mehta and I had spent a year at New Delhi's National Defence College in1976 and have remained friends since then. We passed by the other POW guests being welcomed at the station in the traditional Indian ceremoney with shehnai music, garlands and caprisoned elephants .Mehta's car took us to his sprawling residence for breakfast with him and his family with all buildings and shops  on the way painted in the regulation rose pink. His son after a business degree exports  Rajasthan silks, handlooms and handicrafts ,famous for its exquisite workmanship and beautiful bright colours. Meeting after 7/8 years we exchanged news and views and after a sumptuous breakfast  left to join the group which after a drive through Jaipur city, planned with straight grid roads in 1727 by Maharaja Jai Singh would have reached Amber Palace , residence of Kachhwaha Rajput rulers since 11th century till the construction of the City Palace.

            On the way we  passed by  Hawa Mahal, ( Hall of breeze and wind), built for the women inside to watch in privacy processions outside. It  photographs impressively but is not so in reality. Because of  advance publicity many monuments donot measure  up to the expectations. Yes , Taj Mahal, Pyramids , Cappadoccia and Petra the pink Nabattean  city did. But not Abu Simbel, London's Thames bridge. Conveniently at Hawa Mahal there was a monkey dancing and a snake charmer too making a reptile sway to music.On way to Amber we passed by a shallow lake on the right I had first seen the lake and the city in 1967 as we drove down south through the hills from Delhi here.It was like passing through  Khyber Pass ,the Cilician gates or from the Syrian gates onto Issos where Alexander defeated  Darius III. We drove many times through it  when my daughter Bulbul was studying at the  Maharani Gayatri  Devi School, Jaipur and later Tinoo was sent in 1975 from Paris where I was posted ,to Mayo College Both the schools were established primarily to educate the children of ruling families. Rajasthan has many other good schools .

         Reaching Amber we  mounted the last of the wheeling and swinging up and down elephants to go up to the Palace. The panoramic view from the  Palace , one can see for scores of miles (ie enemy approaching )overlooking the lake is fantastic. We visited a replica of Moti Mahal, palace of mirrors with the guide demonstrating  with a candle its  multi-image stars effect. After the Palace  many went to the State Handicrafts Emporium for shopping but we drove down to Hotel Ram Bagh Palace , the last of the Royal Jaipur residences , a wing still occupied by the current Maharajah of Jaipur, (whose polo playing father and beautiful step mother Gayatri Devi were popular celebrities on French Riveira and the exclusive salons of Paris and London) We ate from  a lavishly laid out bufffet lunch. I found it spicy and hot but many in the group just lapped it up.

                After lunch  we saw the observatory, built by Maharajah Jai Singh , a great astronomer and the  City Palace, mostly in yellow and white -an exception to the rule ,which now as a museum displays Royal arms, textiles, jewelery, carpets  and has the usual shopping center  for tourists. We returned to POW only to freshen up and were driven up to hilltop Nahargarh Fort ,one of the Maharajah's resting places, from where the twinkling lights of the city below enhance the feeling of being in a dreamland. Till 1942 it used to be the treasury and it was rumoured that soon before India's independence  plane loads of jewlels were flown out to Europe. While we were having drinks before dinner a programme of folkloric dance, music and fire breathing magic tricks was arranged .The lead dancer thought herself no less than courtesan Umrao Jan from whose film she enacted some dance numbers. By this time everyone looking after us knew about me .The Rajputs were very proud that one of them was India's Ambassador .They refused to accept any money for drinks. We were  happy to meet them. We returned to POW and our beds. It had been a tiring day , but already we were dreaming of the Chittorgarh Fort , with its hoary legends of Rajput valour and sacrifice and the marble palace in Pichola lake of Udaipur.

                       

                                            Day 3; Chitorgarh Fort and Udaipur.

            Another early start. After breakfast we got into buses at 0730 hrs to drive up the hill through the seven massive fort gates( called Pols in Rajasthan )to Chitorgarh.- a stronghold of Sisodia Rajputs, who established their rule here in 6th cent AD and built up this highest Fort at 500 ft on this oblong hill .Three times they were attacked ; first in 1303 by the  forces of Turkish Sultan Allauddin  Khilji, then Bahadur Shah of Gujarat in 1534/35 and finally by Moghul Emperor Akbar  in 1567/68 .But each time they refused to submit and tens of thousands died while fighting  to the last man, with their women immolating themselves in fire( called Jauhar). After the last defeat they shifted to Udaipur .Unlike Jaipur Rajputs they  refused to give their daughters in marriage to the Moghuls. So the Maharanas of Udaipur ie  Mewar are ranked highest among the Rajputs .Of the many legendry and hallowed spots is  the 125 ft high Tower of Victory, a masterpiece in Jain architecture, built to celebrate victory over Gujarat ruler. Here we drank coconut  juice ,visited the Kali temple, which Rana Kumbha had built in 14 th century, after the 6 th century Sun Temple was destroyed by the Khiljis and the palace of legendry Queen Padmini who had refused to give in to the Khilji Sultan and  instead prefered to immolate herself . After a comfortable but non-descript 110 kms bus drive we reached Udaipur, surrounded by hills providing  strategic protection and artificial lakes dug  for drinking water and agriculture, When hard pressed Maharanas Partap and Udai Singh even left it to subsist on grass leaves but would not submit to the Moghuls even symbolically.

      After reaching Udaipur City Palace , one of the largest in India, we saw  marble Jug Niwas Palace floating on lake Pichola , now a hotel, one of the prettiest and most entrancing sights in the world ; its Maharani suite being very popular with honeymooners .We were taken there by a motorboat and received with garlands and Aarti by two comely Rajput maidens in true Rajasthani traditional welcome .The Palace has an atmosphere of langurous haze and relaxation.You feel like doing nothing ,just relax and gaze at the surroundings including another red sand stone Jag-mandir Palace on the lake and the reflection of the City Palace on the shore. A fabulous buffet lunch was laid out. Hungry, we did justice  quickly and rushed to see my elder brother Prof Virendra Singh ,who has been teaching  there since mid 1960s . So  whenever I go to India I visit him. We surprised them as the telegram of my arrival had not reached them . His wife Vishya is the daughter of Ramkot Rajah and grand daughter of Dulha House of Jaipur ,where  in 1968, when we first went there I was outdrunk by her mother in law and some other ladies, although most ladies donot drink. It was a chastening experience as at that time I could outdrink Turks , Sikhs and many others .Vishya was most hospitable and distressed that we would stay but  an hour or so as we wanted to see the City Palace  with its terrace gardens and penthouse suites for the Maharanas and their consorts .           

                        We caught the POW group and went round the city Palace  with its long and glorious history, its rulers claiming descent from the Sun god and saw the  costumes , armoury and other belongings of the Maharanas..We then walked over to the neighboring Palace with Chandeliers with a marvelous view. One of the Maharajahs had ordered from London everything made in crystal; tables ,chairs, sofas and even beds. Some of those Maharajas were really crazy. In the audience hall sitar and tabla provided soothing music while we had pastries, sand-witches, pakoras, cold drinks and tea.We went out to the balcony  to watch once again the beautiful ethereal view of the lake Palace as the dusk  was descending. We then rushed to Sahelion ki Bari, a garden created by Maharajah Sangram Singh for his daughter to stroll around with her friends. The illuminated fountains, run on water head differential , piped from Fatehsagar Dam, made it like the Hassasins paradise  in medieval times. To please the princess, in one corner the fountain showers created the tip-tip sound and a feeling of rainfall ,so rare in a desert. After this we made the return journey and at a tea stop I could not help but eat some hot crisp Kachchoris risking infection .We were  back into the POW , which soon starts rolling. We showered  and had drinks in the bar and  a leisurely dinner with most passengers animated and excited. Next stop was Swai Madhopur, hunting lodge of Jaipur Maharajah with its tiger and animal sanctuary and the tenth century Ranthambore fort , for which we must start early to see the birds and animals waking up.

And catch the tigers going out for the morning drink.

                        Fourth Day ; Sawai Madhopur and Tiger Sanctuary at Ranthambore.

                        While having bed tea ,through the dark windows of the still POW we could see the still life at Sawai Madhopur station coming to slow animation as if in a surrealist tableau. People  waking up, yawning and  tousling up their hair ,slowing walking to the water hydrant , brushing teeth with neem twigs. A new wave film director would have to just  let the camera roll on.We got up from our reverie , gulped down our tea and were the last to join the waiting jeeps which were  ready to drive us to the sanctuary to look for tigers. We passed by normal scenes of village life , with people going about their business  leisurely ,  water buffalows lolling in water ponds,  birds  chirping etc.  After entering through the gates of the sanctuary ,on right hand side 250 mtrs up ,we could see the ruins and  ramparts of the Ranthambore fort. When Alauddin Khilji stormed it in 1303, twenty thousand women commited suicide (jauhar). We drove across the fields along miles and miles of the lake ,hanging onto the jeep railings. We saw various kinds of birds ,deers, chinkaras and other animals.Other groups like us guided us to where a tiger had been spotted.We looked for normal tiger signatures - the panicky reaction of  birds and baying of terrified Sambal deer, tiger's most favorite meal. It appeared to be a wild goose chase going up and down till finally we saw one from quite a distance.(It can be seen in its video captured glory  filmed with  telescopic lense ) Everyone was happy and we returned to the POW for a late breakfast. Our next destination was the golden city of Jaisalmer in the middle of Thar desert, not far from the Pakistani border. I tried to read about  what we had seen and what was to come .We were excited and drawing on our adreline flow, now we realised how fatigued we were  after 3 hectic days of sightseeing ,drinking and eating  well and not getting enough sleep. We had a few pre-lunch drinks in the restaurant car with fields, villages and many forts in distance passing us by .After a  leisurely lunch a hazy languor took  over and we returned for a long siesta. It was Diwali day, the festival of lights to celebrate the victory of virtue over evil ,so as the dusk fell , we could  see fireworks in the sky and lamps and candles being lighted up in the villages and hamlets along the rail track.. Late in night for a little while we stopped at the deserted Jaipur station for the change of the POW service personnel and then proceeded on to Jaisalmer .We needed to sleep well to recuperate ;for the next three days schedule was equally exciting and physically hectic.

 

                   Fifth Day; Jaisalmer of Golden Castle, carved stone mansions and  camel ride

                        The early morning golden sun , which has inspired poets and laid the foundation of religions through millenia was just bathing the ramparts of  99 bastion massive sandstone castle founded by Rawal Jaisal in 1156 AD, with many additions of later date, making it aglitter like a giant gold jewel. Coming out of the POW we looked at it, photographed it and continued to gaze at it from the dining car while savoring the special Indian breakfast of puries and curry  Inspite of reading and seeing prints the sight was awesome in grandeur.We were given a very a  warm reception, as Jaisalmer located on trade routes in ancient and medieval times has little going for it now except tourists , with tens of thousands coming here every year and charmed by its castle and Havelis and doing word by mouth publicity. It enchanted Indira Gandhi when she visited it. It gets attention being near the Pakistani border ; the other reason for its fame is nearby Pokharan, where  India conducts its nuclear explosions.

                        But we first went to Gadi Sagar lake ,into which a rainfed desert river empties ,which sustains the citizens and animals year round .Lack or failure of rainfall can be catas-trophic . Around the lake are places of worship and pleasure with their myths and legends ,of rich courtesan and recalcitrant Rajah.The musicians serenading the guests welcomed us with local tribal women hawking  silver trinkets. We had another magnificent view of the castle looking  like a barnackled Noah's Ark .But first we went to the Havelis ( mansions) of rich traders and Viziers, who using local golden yellow sandstone and abundant local artisan talent have constructed beautiful buildings with carved balconies, latticed windows called Jharokas and designer facades.They were just magnificent and  open to public viewing.The bazars were just like my birthplace Bhiwani on the edge of the desert. I had a cold so I bought cough syrup to keep it at bay for a few more days .I was tempted to eat juicy sweets , but was afraid of getting infection. We then went to the giant castle , built on a triangular hillock on the advice of an oracle. My own ancestors although originating from another state  Karauli  belonged to the same clan of Jadon Rajputs. We went up passing by the gates , listening to myths and legends of chivalry and romance .At some spots  young turbanned kids (as also near the Havelis) on the approach of tourists broke into singing and dancing .Cute little boys they were ,joyous and colorfully dressed .We listened to the  history of Jaisalmer and passed by  living quarters, some still being used .At the end we reached a cluster of Jain temples, a pacific vegetarian sect of Budha days vintage but popular among traders of West India , particularly in Rajasthan and Gujerat. Exquisite and intricate carvings of various incarnations of its founder Mahavir Jain could be seen along with his life story depicted in beautiful stone carvings. We had lunch in a new hotel and some rest in POW.

                        We then drove out to Sam Sand Dunes 80 km into the desert for the piece de resistance ; a camel ride. It was fantastic for first timers; the undulating ride , rows of colorful camels riding on pure Sahara like  sand. For real enthusiasts there are camel safaris  all over Rajasthan.  Midway  there were musicians singing and playing on harmonium, Indian version of accordian. Far away from everywhere , tourists feeling liberated , high spirited  and happy spontaneously broke out into a celebration of dancing . A pure  expression  of joy and abandon . Many were taken up and danced with gusto. Private enterprise provided hiked up cola and water, even for your camel .By the time we returned to the starting point, a welcome cup of steaming tea was waiting and across miles of  sheer desert sand horizon the Sun was about to set in. So we  sat down to relax and watch it go down slowly with the sky slowly becoming orange red and crim-son.. Only a desert sunset is like that. So different from sunsets of  mountain tops , hills, lakes and seas. We returned to POW to wash up and change .Most ladies dressed  to kill and even men were all dolled up for an evening fare of local folk music and dances in the serene surroundings of Moomal Tourist Bangalow under a clear desert sky. We were in a partying  mood ; out to enjoy and dance.. First some  ladies joined in with  the local dancers and then almost everyone did and what an enjoyable evening it turned out to be .In the end it was disclosed that one of the sinuous dancers was infact a boy.  It had been a long and exhilarating but a tiring day. We were awed ,satiated, amused  and entertained and returned to POW to go on to Jodhpur of  Mehrangarh fort, one of the most picturesque forts to be seen anywhere in the world.

 

                                 Day 6, Jodhpur , Marwar stronghold of  Rathores.

              Today morning we did not have to hurry up, so after a leisurely breakfast, we boarded the bus for the Mehrangarh fort of Jodhpur, founded in 1459 by Rao Jodha , his  dynasty at its zenith of  glory, although it had begun in 1212.. We slowly walked up its various gates , as usual welcomed by groups of musicians . The ramparts and balconies were  high and there are legends of chivalry , love , bravery and sacrifice. In 1679 when Aurangzeb tried to convert its citizens to Islam, Jodhpur with Jaipur which had supported he Moghul dynasty joined up with  Udaipur and successfully defeated his designs. Like  Mediterenean coastal  cities which are white colored, or cream / white stone Amman, Jodhpur buildings and houses have  light blue color wash. They  must look dreamy on full moon nights. Romantic and ethereal. We saw the private premises of Maharajas , their ornate bed rooms , the creche rooms and other places with fantastic views and a hazy Taj Mahal like silhouette far away of Umaid Bhavan Palace, the only palace built in the 20th century. We were shown  how a Rajasthani turban was tied It is not easy. I had carried two tied ones to Dakar ( Senegal ) in 1978 for my  first credential ceremonies (also for Banjul,  Bamako, Praha and Guinea-Bissau).The Rajputana Rifles had sent their professional turnbanmen to do the job. Jodhpur fort even has a mosque. We then drove to white marble Chhatris, the Hindu crem-ation cenotaph of the Royal family. It was quite some thing with  the tourist guide exagge-rating the similarity between  names Christ and Krishna , the latter propounded Bhagvat Gita, the essence of Hindu philosophy. Never mind that ,we drove through the city to the Umaid Bhavan Palace, now a hotel with a wing occupied by the Royal family. The Maharani personally ensures the cleanliness and upkeep of the Mehrangarh fort  and when in residence the Maharaja , who  was once  Ambassador in the Carribean, comes down to mingle with the guests and see that they are happy. Umaid Bhavan in light pink sandstone with a beautiful garden at the back and an excellent view of Mehrangarh is massive but modern. Its architect Lancaster was influenced by Lutyens, who designed New Delhi residence of the English Viceroy, now occupied by Republican India's President. It was built as a famine relief project to provide employment to the ryaya of the kingdom in 1930s. After an excellent  lunch laid out for us , we returned to our POW to relax and some  went for shopping. The train started early to reach at 0600 hrs next day morning at Fateh-pur  Sikri , the  exquisite capital built by Moghul Emperor Akbar, but he was not destined to  stay there. We were very fortunate. The epicenter of full Sun eclipse was around the nearby Bharatpur bird sanctuary.

 

                           Day 7;Bird sanctuary, Fatehpur  Sikri, TAJ MAHAL and Agra Fort.

                                   

         ' --Only let this one teardrop, the Taj Mahal, glisten spotlessly bright in the cheek of heaven                                                                      for ever and ever-- '    Rabindra Nath Tagore

                       

                                    It was as well that we had an early night, although being the penultimate day, beginning to feel nostalgic of new friendships we had celebrations. After a few drinks , I opened  Champagne bottles and there was a special dinner .We thanked the dining car staff and room attendants .As an Ambassador ,belonging to the Rajput caste I had all along been given great respect and pride of place. I made a short  speech thanking the POW staff  for their  warmth and hospitality . They were superb.

                    But  the last day was going to be  tough. After quick  bed tea, we got into the luxury bus at Fatehpur Sikri to drive to Keoladeo Ghana National bird sanctuary, excavated out of a swamp to form a large fresh water lake in 1902 by the Maharajah of Bharatpur. Around 350 bird species are sighted every year including during peak winter season  Siberian cranes. We reached in time for the eclipse to commence. A large number of people from all over India have come to witness the total Sun eclipse; for this was a rare chance , as it was for us also. We looked at the flights of birds , of so many kinds. This was going to be  my first fully photographed and video-taped total eclipse. How the Sun's rays and light dimmed slowly The birds started making unusual noises , fearful and uneasy. It was not the usual chirping  we had heard on arrival. This was an unusual change of light for them. Soon it was almost total darkness early in the  morning. around 0830 hrs. It looked weird and we felt weird. No wonder our ancestors thousands of years ago gave such different and  fanciful meanings ,religious imputations and forecasts to such events in which many still continue to believe. And who knows , there may be some truth in them. Then the Sun emerged slowly from the shadow of the Moon and the Sunlight became normal. Once again peace returned , the birds were calm  and chirping quietly .With many hundreds others in the Park  we had collectively gone through a unique almost mystic experience.

                   We then realised  that we were hungry so we were taken to a Garden restaurant and enjoyed a buffet breakfast and moved on to Fatehpur Sikri, architecturally a beautifully designed city , near a permanent water source river Jamuna . Begun in 1567 it took 7 years to build but it didnot flourish. Akbar had to spend most of his time around Lahore to guard against attacks from the North West. and the Jamuna's course shifted away. Now situated in between the towns of Fatehpur (named after Akbar's victory in Gujarat) and Sikri, it is a marvel of city and palace planning. There are separate Mahals and suites for Akbar's many queens from different countries and religions, including one for Rumi Sultana from Turkey ,another for his chief Queen, a Rajput princess, mother of his son and heir ,Emperor Jahangir and a Christian one, all with their places of worship. After him it became a common practice to have Rajput princesses as queens , with in laws playing important role in successions and  holding key posts, like Commanders of Armies and bringing in the fiercely loyal Rajput warrior community into the Moghul fold ,which helped in laying the foundations of the Empire and its expansion .We also visited the Dargah of Shiekh Salim Chisti, who predicted birth of 3 sons to Akbar ;where people still flock to get their  wishes fulfilled. It is located in a large Mosque, whose courtyard of 110 and 140 mtrs can accomodate thousands of faithfuls and is entered through a magnificently carved Islamic style high gate called Bulend Darwaza. We then drove to Taj View Hotel for lunch.

                        Taj Mahal was built by Moghul Emperor Shahjahan in memory of his favourite queen MumTAJ ,whose death left him inconsolable and wherein the two now repose in peace. With generations of peace and accumulated wealth ,during Shahjahan's reign, the Mughal Empire reached its zenith of creativity .It took two decades and up to 20,000  workers, artisans and artists at a time to shape his dream into an everlasting luminous poetry in marble. The famous Peacock Throne was also created during Shahjahan's reign. First timers have  anticipation of encountering one of the  wonders of the world The first dazzling view should be seen from the main entrance and not the side one. We had some argument about taking my cameras inside, but the attendants were dimwitted. So I gave up. The group oohed and aahed and admired it from far and from near, from this angle and that and from all distances  It is one human  creation which more than fulfills all your expectations and transcends it . It is a different vision at different times of the day and  night ,month, season and year. It is beyond description .One has to see it to appreciate it and be seduced by its everlasting  rapturous beauty , height of human endevour in architecture  to chizzle an Emperor's dream into a shimmering vision in marble .Shahjahan was perhaps the guiding light as few authentic names of  architects are mentioned ; although among others one Isa Effendi Bey in Persian accounts is mentioned.

            The last visit was to magnificent Agra fort , built by Akbar in 16th century, Moghul's first opulent residence  before  Aurengzeb permanently shifted the capital to Delhi .It is a marvelous example of Moghul planning , garden landscaping ,architecture and construction with its Jahan-giri Mahal ,suites and chambers for the queens , concubines , harem girls, khadims and Halls for private and public audiences ,its beautiful pearly Moti Masjid, all framed  among lovely gardens and green spaces. Situated on river Jamuna it has a  panoramic sweep over the river bend  with a clear view of Taj Mahal from a distance .Alas Shahjahan, its builder ,was imprisoned here by his son and successor ,Emperor Aurangzeb and could only philosophise at the tragic turn of events.

            Educated ,entertained and dined on gourmet dinners , treated  like a Maharajah for a hassle free  week , but exhausted  we returned to our Palace on Wheels to recall , ponder,  assimi-late , think  and savor these memories for ever. It was some trip ,to be able to see so much in so little time. To see  what we did will take at least twice the time and twice the money with  the hassles of transferring to hotels and airports , hustling for taxis, queuing for Palace and fort entrance tickets, looking for Guides or  tea, mineral water or soft drinks and right restaurants for lunches and dinners .When the Chairman of Indian Railways was planning to bring out the moth-balled old Royal railway saloons and carriages used by erstwhile Maharajas and Nawabs of the Indian princely states for these travels, he was being so demanding that his adviser on tourism RK Puri, exclaimed "What you want is a Palace on Wheels." And that is what they have created. The  original saloons  having done duty the current ones while less luxurious are  more comfortable and functional with attendants at your service all the time .Tour escorts like Atul Jhala, scions of old ruling families with their grace ,quiet charm, dignity and politesse of nobility ensure air-conditioned coaches with professional tourist guides, many professors or experts in arts and culture, awaiting  you, without any worry of entrance fees ; cool drinking water or tea when you might wish for , escorting you to the best of shopping ; silks ,handicrafts , gifts for the loved ones and souvenirs .The comforts of a Maharajah created in a Republican India. What more can one dream and wish for ?.

 

                                                                           Amb.(Retd) K. Gajendra Singh   Ankara ,1997